European Union – antitrust
European Commission
Commission fines Pierre Cardin and its licensee Ahlers €5.7 million for restricting cross-border sales of clothing
On 28 November 2024, the European Commission imposed fines totaling €5.7 million on Pierre Cardin and its largest licensee, Ahlers, for breaching European Union (EU) antitrust rules. The companies were found to have restricted cross-border sales of Pierre Cardin-branded clothing and sales to specific customers, violating Article 101 of the Treaty on the Functioning of the European Union (TFEU) and Article 53 of the European Economic Area (EEA) Agreement.
Pierre Cardin, a French fashion company, licenses its trademark to third parties for the manufacture and distribution of Pierre Cardin-branded clothing. Ahlers, the largest licensee in the EEA during the infringement period, was subject to an investigation launched by the Commission following unannounced inspections on 22 June 2021. Formal proceedings were initiated on 31 January 2022, with a Statement of Objections issued on 31 July 2023.
The investigation revealed that between 2008 and 2021, Pierre Cardin and Ahlers engaged in anticompetitive agreements and concerted practices to ensure Ahlers’ territorial protection. These agreements would have:
1. Prevented other Pierre Cardin licensees and their customers from selling, online and offline, branded clothing outside their licensed territories.
2. Restricted sales to low-price retailers such as discounters, limiting consumer access to lower-priced goods.
These alleged absolute territorial protection practices would have distorted the internal market by preventing parallel trade, which typically fosters price competition and benefits consumers with lower prices and greater product diversity.
Fines were calculated based on the Commission’s 2006 Guidelines, considering the gravity, geographic scope, and duration of the infringement. A claim for inability to pay under point 35 of the Guidelines led to a fine reduction. The final penalties were €2,237,000 for Pierre Cardin and €3,500,000 for Ahlers.
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